We’ve flown from New York straight to London for the next Fashion Week on the list. Say hello to some of the industry’s renowned designers (and some fresh faces on the scene too) as they showcase and forecast the trends of next Spring. We take a moment to shed light on those designers that highlight the much-needed importance of inclusivity and diversity within the fashion industry.
Faduma’s Fellowship took to this year’s London Fashion Week runway with designs by fellowship award-winner Harriet Eccleston, marking the launch of their first adaptive-wear collection. Faduma Farah, who was rendered paralysed from the neck down at 34 years old, founded the fellowship in 2021 to address the lack of clothing choices for disabled people by sponsoring the creation of adaptive-wear collections. This collection highlights design innovations such as magnetic buttons, relocated pockets, breathable fabrics and hidden seams. The show also addressed the problem of the availability of wheelchair user-friendly fashion, with unique pieces in a range of fresh colours for the spring season. Standout pieces include the fuchsia two-piece suit with an adaptive friendly waistband and camel toned coat suitable for a wheelchair user to stay warm on the go. Inspiring designers, design educational institutions and the fashion industry, the show was closed with a touching speech from Farah who reminded the world that wheelchair users matter.
SABIRAH by Deborah Latouche
Introducing a contemporary modest wear brand that believes in the elevation of ALL women regardless of size, religion or race, SABIRAH. Inspired by lost portraits of the Black Victorians that were unearthed in 2014, Collection 1.3 imagines these women of colour flourishing in today’s world and recreates the clothing of that age whilst retaining the distinct SABIRAH look. This collection celebrates occasionwear and luxurious fabrics, whilst highlighting the precious time we spend with family and friends. Forming the enthusiastic colour palette, we see fresh colours such as arctic whites, aqua, lemon gold and deeply vivid cerise. Highlights of the range include the Tuxedo Trouser and signature Short Cape and the KHADIJAH Dress and Blouse, which offer elegant but exaggerated silhouettes that echo the Victorian era.
SABIRAH grew from a desire to fulfill the needs of the modern modest dresser without having to compromise due to the limitations of fast fashion. SABIRAH addresses the need for a market that can sometimes feel neglected – a capsule collection that talks directly to the modest woman, using luxury fabrics and contemporary yet timeless styling, it encompasses all the elements for a ready-to-wear wardrobe
Founder of SABIRAH
Taking inspiration from Latinamerican Arpilleras (a humble embroidery patchwork technique that became a symbol of protest in the ‘70s) and the history of ingenious Victorian cyclists, Anciela hit the runway with a collection of jacquards using recycled cotton, bold stripes crafted from post-consumer waste fibres and decadent silks and garments made from industry deadstock. With a contrasting colour palette from warm yellow and copper to colder hues of blue, this gives the range a vintage feel with fresh and sporty aspects from the graphic prints. Channelling a nostalgic yet hopeful feminine energy, this season was heavily influenced by the history of women cyclists with a contemporary take on romantic puff sleeves, open backs and innovative cuts.
Introducing The Little Prince collection by Ester Kubisz, inspired by the French novella written by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry. Addressing the themes of loneliness, friendship, love and loss (just like the book), this collection allows you to meet different characters whilst taking you on a journey of exploration. Each look uses design approaches and textile manipulations to mirror the novel’s characters, including the Pilot’s messed up suit when his plane crashed, the Fox’s shredded dress after being caught in fences when hunting or the Rose’s ribbon dress. The collection combines Kubisz’s traditional suit deconstruction and tactile textile handwork with more bold, minimal, oversized silhouettes.
Delving into the personal process of dissociation in the mind where two identities coexist within the same self, the ‘Foreign Body’ collection from MYNOK is inspired by the consciousness and unconsciousness in a person, representing the psyche as a whole. Portraying the self as a harmonious but fragile circle where the balance is broken if one of the identities stands out over the other. Pioneering the genderless and LGBTQ movement within the casting of MYNOK’s collections, the label also offers experimental and directional pieces that blur the lines of male and female under a feminine spectrum, the result is a community of creative simplicity and distinctive style. What’s more, each piece is handmade using 100% organic Briiths wools, organic cotton and LVMH deadstock.
Jessie Da Silva
Canadian womenswear label, Jessie Da Silva virtually showcased her breaking norms SS22 collection at this year’s London Fashion Week. This ethically made collection has been designed with the wearer’s ultimate confidence in mind. Inspired by city lights, starry skies and transcendence cocktail lounges, the SS22 colour palette combines a mix of pastel hues, from dusty pink, sky blue, mint and lilac to warm creams and sage tones. Offering ultra-glossy silhouettes perfect for after-hours dressing that tests the boundaries.
“Juliette Has a Gun”, a collection expressing gender inequality and vulnerability of women across the world and inspired by the poignant views of Jess Phillips, the Labour MP for Birmingham Yardley and Shadow Minister for Domestic Violence and Safeguarding.
In March 2021, following the murder of Sarah Everard, Phillips read out the names of all women killed in the previous year stating, “killed women are not vanishingly rare, killed women are common”. Says Yuhan: “I believe that in the 21st century women should not feel vulnerable or live with fear.”
In preparation, of her SS22 collection themes of femininity and strength play out in her signature ruched dresses, butterfly and rose motifs in leather corsets, holster bags and guillotine toe flat lace shoes. Yuhan looked back to valiant female figures including American ranchers and Victorian adventurers. “The collection is about women’s power, mentally as well. We are stronger minded than many men,” adds Yuhan.
In her desire to emphasise female strength and boost confidence, Yang choses to highlight the subtle ‘defence’ that can be found in romantic motifs, in lace and floral jacquards and delicate detailing like scalloped edges on blouses, gored skirts and embroidered faux leather that is cut into frock coats and raw edge corsets. Her seasonal print is a hand drawn and digitally printed image of a galloping horse that appears on ruched silks bodices,
flowing dresses and tube skirts capturing a sense of freedom. “Everything is easy to wear, with a real study on day pieces,” says Yuhan. Embroidered and printed deadstock faux leather bralettes, belts and corsets create an armour over the defiantly feminine pieces. The palette is fresh with blue and white spriggy prints, pea green, and white including a recycled cotton flower embroidered lace. There are crocheted necklaces and lace and jacquard flats and Louis heels. The collection features 3D printed moulded leather gun shaped bags as well as resin jewellery in the shape of flower blooms.
Capturing the freedom to wear what you like and being your true self, we welcomed Enamoure‘s presentation of their new SS22 collection ‘Risqué’. Inspired by the Chic album, the ‘Risqué’ collection tells the story of each and every one of us, detailing the story of a woman who realises she can control her own destiny and does not need to be accompanied to be happy, strong, powerful and talented. Believing in every woman’s potential, Enamoure offers accessories that encourage a more free-spirited and honest expression. Each bag has been designed with versatility in mind, you can take them from important office meetings to your elegant dinner out – meeting the expectations of a fierce and independent woman.