Scheduled to take place in the fashionable capital city of France this July, the Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week 2020 is the next event to go virtual. After being cancelled due to COVID-19, many of the leading fashion houses and designers showcase their collections via social media. We’re here to give you the rundown of some of our favourite designers and their show-stopping collections.
Elie Saab announced their collection ‘Le Retour Aux Sources’, meaning ‘Homecoming’, on Instagram this week. The fashion designer goes back to Haute Coutures roots, paying homage to artistry and digs deep into the abundant beauty of nature. This exclusive collection aims to take you on a journey of serenity and celebration of nature. With delicate details, this collection explores tranquility and enlightenment.
The ‘ATTITUDE’ collection from Alexis Mabille speaks sophisticated elegance, with delicate details of laces, embroideries, jewels and furs. The intricate designs feature abstract embroidery inspired by French artist Jean Lurçat. Mabille delved into the idea of ‘casual couture’ this season, incorporating a variety of materials such as jersey dresses. The extreme balloon sleeves and highly pronounced necklines contribute to the oversized theme throughout, hinting at the concept of ‘pure without being minimal’.
It’s my vision of an attitude, a call for optimism, an invitation to smile.Alexis Mabille
Aelis provided us with fallen angel energy in this season’s collection. With a neutral but complementary colour palette, and the added feature of tulle and feathers, this collection is everyone’s fantasyland come to life. The simple silhouettes and designs prove to be striking as they fall effortless off of the body. The seemingly popular layering and ruffling of fabrics gives the garments multiple aspects of interest.
The breathtaking, ‘Butterfly People’ collection from Rahul Mishra attempts to answer the simple but very pertinent question – ‘what is the relevance of couture in such times?’. Exploring the idea that couture brings people together during times of uncertainty. Rahul Mishra is the first Indian designer to showcase at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week, championing show fashion with traditional Indian crafts. The designer pushes for sustainable employment for the craft community, with all of his stunning designs and 3D embroidery completed by hand. The soft colour palette collection is filled with organza, ruffling, capes and tiered gowns.
Imane Ayissi presented the beautiful ‘Amal-Si’ collection, meaning ‘The Evil That Strikes Earth’ in his native Cameroon language. This collection considers the material and existential problems fashion houses have faced during the global pandemic, and offers and answer to the question – ‘How and why continue to create when you have nothing left?’. Amal-Si honours the resilience of African societies, their ingenuity and their frugality. Made from offcuts from previous collections and orders, that would usually go to waste, the collection includes a patchwork of fabrics, tailored, worn and ready-made. Amal-Si is full of innovative and creative designs and patterns, the upbeat colours representing finding joy even in times of sadness.
Ralph & Russo
Ralph & Russo present a collection infused with wonder, encouraging people to look beyond and to dream. Abundant with vibrant tones of yellow-gold and sky blue, with hues of lavender and fuchsia pink, the collection harkens to the natural palette of our planet. The luxury brand continue to represent art and the world in its purest form, knowing no bounds. Merging the traditional with the future, this collection has been carefully created with the most eye catching designs that enhance the silhouette with intricate floral details. Giving us all the connotations of femininity, grace and style.
Antonio Grimaldi showcased the ‘Ælektra’ collection as part of Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week. Inspired by Rome and fascinated by the myth of Electra, Antonio Grimaldi designs and creates a collection focused on a mother and daughter relationship. Full of contrasting dresses, a rivalry between whites and blacks to represent the contrast between good and evil, light and darkness. The collection is made up of twenty-two dresses, in absolute white and purest black shades – whilst incorporating many shades of pink. Some dresses have been paired with jewels created by Roman craftsman designer, Marco De Luca. Embellishing clothes with bracelets and rings depicting dragon heads, a symbol of creative and beneficial strength.
Based around representing the growth humans experience in life, XUAN Couture introduced ‘Windows of Infinity’ this season. Designer Xuan-Thu Nguyen worked on solely monochrome looks, whilst playing around with bursts of bright colours. The stark contrast shown between the four looks in this collection is prominent, with the monochrome pieces focused around the structure of the garments and their silhouettes. Whilst the colourful looks embrace a more random approach, with extreme ruffling of the colourful fabrics. Adding in aspects of nature with decorative flowers, of which is constructed around the unrecognisable head of the model.
Giambattista Valli, the designer of the most iconic tulle dresses in fashion, is yet to disappoint following the launch of his Haute Couture 19 Collection. Showcasing an experimentation with different silhouettes, shapes and cuts; the focus of this collection is the beauty of volumes and the “Excellence” of dressmaking. Including extra-ordinary oversized bows and cascades of multi-layered tulle ruffles and a highly romanticised colour palette. Giambattista Valli dedicates Haute Couture 19 to La Ville Luminère and to the support of the Art of the Ateliers. Colours include red like the lipstick marks often found on empty cups in Parisian cafés, pink like the wild roses in the city’s gardens and black like the notorious “Petite Robe Noire”. The collection is presented in the form a video and images that, alongside the creations, shows fragments of Paris and its nature seen through the eyes and the camera of Giambattista Valli himself.
Iris Van Herpen
The ‘Transmotion’ dress and short film from Iris Van Herpen, captures the mesmeric muse Carice van Houten. The term ‘Transmotion’ depicts the process of change from one state and form, to another. This stunning dress radiates in a bloom of white silk organza with translucent pleated layers. The fragile, sheer petals are contrasted against the hand stitched, black branches – forming the central roots of the garment. The concept of the creation stems from the notion of growth and regeneration – embodying the idea of potential life that comes with a simple seed.