Take Your Front Row Seat As New York Fashion Week Is Back
ICYMI, we were treated this past week to an insight into the world of Spring/Summer 2023 fashion with September 2022’s New York Fashion Week. Showcasing American collections, the week was kickstarted on Friday by the city’s Proenza Schouler before it finally closed its doors for another season, by none other than Tom Ford, last night.
With the initial schedule featuring over 110 confirmed designers, including LaQuan Smith, Sergio Hudson, Prabal Gurung, Brandon Maxwell, and Kim Shui Studio, we also warmly welcomed back the return of Tommy Hilfiger, AREA and PUMA after their NYFW hiatus following the COVID-19 pandemic. But this September, the much loved in-person shows were given the go-ahead to take place in accordance with the New York State Health Guidelines, which meant models were able to hit the runway once more and guests filed into venues to take their seats and catch a glimpse of 2023, being brought to life through the form of fashion.
We were also introduced to an array of new style creatives, including Tia Adeola, ONE/OF by Patricia Voto, Midnight Studios, ASHLYN, AnOnlyChild and Foo and Foo, who all took to the New York fashion scene to showcase their take on the seasons ahead. Arriving from overseas, Fendi, Marni and COS, also touched base in the U.S’ largest city as they begin to connect with the destination’s culture and American shoppers.
But enough of the BTS, we’re inviting you to your very own FROW seat to some of the week’s standout shows. So, take a seat, get comfortable and delve into next year’s seasons with just a scroll of your fingertips!
Christian Siriano
Setting the high expectations of the week, designer Christian Siriano brought his runway to the Elizabeth Taylor Townhouse on Wednesday evening and let us tell you, it is everything we asked for…and more! As described by Siriano himself, this SS23 collection ‘isn’t just about what’s next for Spring but rather about being inspired in the moment’, and it does just that. Bringing a sense of beauty into our lives, this collection is filled to the brim with strongly tailored suits, feminine evening gowns arriving in an array of interesting shapes and silhouettes and other couture-esque elements. Taking inspiration from iconic stylish women, including Elizabeth Taylor, Bianca Jagger and Judy Garland, Siriano embedded hints of old Hollywood glamour this season with hopes that the collection transports you into a different time, channeling your inner style icon.
With front row guests such as music icon, Janet Jackson, actress, Alicia Silverstone and model Remi Bader, the show also showcased the designer’s denim collaboration with Gloria Vanderbilt by introducing a third season of tailored denim silhouettes – including a crystal-embellished pair that graced the runway, yes it was as gorgeous as it sounds. After long-admiring the innovation and impact of fine jeweller, Marla Aaron, Siriano also chose for the models to sport some of her modern pieces to compliment the feminine collection. To top the event off, the luxury womenswear designer teamed up with award-winning beauty brand, BeautyBio to give models show-stopping runway-ready skin. Plus, we don’t have to wait until next year for the excitement, this is something we can be excited about now whilst also standing the test of time!
Fendi
Friday evening in NYC’s historic Hammerstein Ballroom, it was the place to be. Fashion house, Fendi celebrated 25 years of their iconic Baguette bag, paying tribute to the city which sealed its place in pop culture history. Artistic Director of Womenswear, Kim Jones described the show as ‘A celebration of time’ of the moment the classically modern house staple became famous. Uniting generations, the show welcomed in familiar and new faces as they presented the rough-cut romance between uptown and downtown, luxury and utility.
The hyper-luxe and glossy glamour runway spotlighted iterations of the style which were designed in collaboration with Marc Jacobs, Tiffany & Co, Sarah Jessica Parker and Porter Yoshida & Co. Inspired by the glass footages and workman’s safety vests seen in the city’s streets, Marc Jacobs designed a capsule collection that paid tribute to the grit and glamour of New York. The grand finale was a moment of standing ovations, New York style of course, as Kim Jones, Artistic Director of Accessories and Menswear Silvia Venturini Fendi and Artistic Director of Jewellery Delfina Delettrez stood together in solidarity with collaborator Marc Jacobs, and finally joined by supermodel Linda Evangelista.
Gita Omri
Step aside, there’s a new designer hitting up NYFW this season and if you don’t already know, it’s time to get to know. Size inclusive fashion designer, Gita Omri made her debut on Friday night with her showcase of 37 looks for SS23. The difference? Gita used two models side by side, dressed in the same piece, one in a size 4 and the other in a size 20 – sticking to her ethos “Not plus, not minus…just womenswear.” Switching up the status quo by being the change she wants to see in the industry, the Israeli-American designer, who has spent her life struggling with the size of her body, has designed one collection that is from size 0-30 and that doesn’t segregate size groups.
Her SS23 collection titled ‘Resilience’ reflects how inspiring the designer finds women’s resilience and how we use fashion to help tell our stories to the world, ‘Our bodies are a major part of our evolution; that’s why inclusive sizing is so important.’ The new season’s line features a variety of flowy dresses, mid and maxi length skirts, crop tops, dress pants and blouses, with many pieces sporting bold colours, prints and graphic designs. Offering the ability for women to go to a fashion show and see someone who looks like them, we can predict that we’ll be seeing a lot more of Gita Omri and her brand in the coming months.
With my label, I seek to empower women to present themselves to the world in their true form with pride, acceptance, and authenticity. We all deserve to look and feel our best regardless of our race, nationality, or SIZE. Dignity has no size tag and fashion should reflect that.
Gita Omri
Erigo-X
Spring Studios saw fine Indonesian craftsmanship meet streetwear at Erigo-X‘s SS23 runway show, titled ‘True Through You’. Dedicated to those who strive to find their true identity and authenticity as an individual, this collection embraces positives and flaws as a means of accepting who we are, what we bring to the table and striving for what we believe in. With baggy, oversized silhouettes appearing in striking denim washes and layers of cotton and mesh, the show contrasted shades of bright blue and olive green with monochrome black and greys.
Accessories were placed at centre stage, elevating each look through the additions of chains, leather bucket hats and sunglasses, although remaining wearable so you can easily go from the runway to the streets of New York without having to alter your outfit. Complemented with wet, slicked hair by Unite with Gary Baker at lead and pop of blue makeup by Mandy Gakhal at AOFMPro, this streetwear brand gave us an insight into their DNA, and all we’re seeing is originality.
Tommy Hilfiger
Bridging the gap between IRL and URL, Tommy Hilfiger made its homecoming to New York Fashion Week on Sunday with the Tommy Factory Fall ’22 Runway Show. In true New York style, the show was met with a downpour of rain but continued despite the unfortunate forecast. Digital innovations immersed the physical audiences in an experiential multiverse runway show, whilst those watching via the livestream across the globe saw the show blended into the virtual world, featuring Superplastic star avatars.
This season, the brand paid tribute to Andy Warhol’s iconic NYC factory, where he brought together fashion, art, music and entertainment. Partnering up with Fergus Purcell on their new TH Monogram and collaborating with British designer, Richard Quinn, Tommy Hilfiger are remixing traditional Americana codes with a contemporary, streetwear twist for this Fall. With clashes of bold colours, reminiscent of Warhol’s Pop Art, whilst reimagining clothing proportions and restyling heritage classics in unexpected ways, the show was a celebration of all things pop culture and creativity. The show’s grand finale included a one-off performance by drummer and producer, Travis Barker, who played an exclusive track for Tommy Factory. Well-known faces were spotted as guests of the event, including Kate Moss, John Legend, Shawn Mendes, Kris Jenner and Kourtney Kardashian.
Double Take: SMA Community
The Spinal Muscular Atrophy community (SMA) partnered up with non-profit organisation, Open Style Lab (OSL) with support by biotechnology company, Genentech’s SMA My Way program, to create a first-of-its-kind runway show, Double Take. SMA is a progressive neuromuscular disease that can impair walking, dexterity and overall strength, making clothing of certain silhouettes, cut, fits and with certain fasteners, inaccessible. Aiming to increase authentic disability representation in the creative sphere and spotlighting the need for adaptive design in fashion, the fashion show was the first to have start-to-finish SMA community involvement, from collaborating on clothing designs and conceptualising the message, to making their way down the runway.
Dedicated to everyone living with a disability, this show invited the world to do a double take, not because of their disabilities by because of their style and individuality. Fashion designers at Open Style Lab, some of whom have disabilities themselves, created and modified garments according to each runway model’s personal style and needs – adaptations included hidden magnetic closures to create the look of buttons without the challenge of fastening them, stretch knit panels instead of zippers and seated-fit pants.
Indonesia Now
Six groundbreaking designers also took to the runway of Spring Studios with Indonesia Now to exhibit to New York how Indonesia is becoming one of the forefronts for innovation, trends and textiles. Pouring their heart, souls and heritage into the collections that walked the runway, each designer took a unique approach to the showcase. VIVIZUBEDI highlighted her collection of stunning prints, structured hats and pops of colour, whilst Coreta Louise‘s “Sea Reflection” line brought fashion from the sea to the city, with rich navy blue and coral. Suedeson‘s new “Lineage” collection presented the traditional Javanese technique Batik Cap with Indonesian Native Flowers, Anggrek Bulan and Tanimbar embellishments; before Heaven Lights introduced us to their new season of strikingly beautiful modest looks, from hijab and headscarves to tops, tunics, dresses and trousers, combining prints in unexpected ways and layering with oversized jackets.
The “Paradise” collection, born out of the collaboration of Alleira Batik, Carys Mihardja, and Amero Jewellery graced the runway seeking to bring critical exposure to the underexplored beauty of Indonesia’s Batik culture while simultaneously shining the spotlight on marginalised communities. Hand-painted by children with special needs, the line featured ornamental Balinese-style motifs inspired by Balinese architecture and Indonesia’s spellbinding nature. SPOUS by Priyo Oktaviano was next on the showcase’s line up, the “Childhood Reminiscence” collection mixed Indonesian IKAT fabrics with bold, neon gender-friendly street style, in reference to Gen Z’s fearless, fresh take on fashion. To complete each an every look, AOFMPro makeup lead, Monique Rinard, and Unite Hair’s Gary Baker complimented the designs with their simple and fresh takes on Spring/Summer beauty using Indonesia’s own, Polka Cosmetics.
Pamella Roland
Celebrating her 20th anniversary runway, Pamella Roland showcased her SS23 collection on Monday afternoon drawing inspiration on her home base of New York City. Illustrating Pamella’s iconic style, pieces have been updated to capture the history of her brand, from bold colours to signature ombre hues and the use of fabrics, feathers, and intricate hand embroideries. Standout silhouettes this season include dramatic capes and sleeves, hand-draped chiffon, and signature ballgowns. The spotlight is placed on a strapless, silver-draped fringe gown that glimmered as it waltzed down the runway, perfectly embodying Roland’s brand ethos and encouraging the bold style of the Pamella Roland woman. If formalwear is your thing, this one’s for you!
Michael Kors
Marking the final day of New York Fashion Week, Michael Kors set the scene in Manhattan, near the West Village with his Urban Resort SS23 runway show. Fusing urbanity and nature, the sleek city was juxtaposed with earthy greenery, inspired by a resort getaway. Modelling everything from sarongs and caftans to sharp tailored suits and Chesterfield coats, in a softly bold colour palette of monochromatic white and black, tropical lime, and bold poppy – harmonised with ethereal tones of pearl, silver, dune and gold. Standout fashion themes included high-shine sequins, liquid fabrics, and architectural silhouettes. Fringing is also carried over from this cooler season into next year. This collection celebrates the body whilst working in every destination around the world, sounds like our Summer 2023 wardrobe is sorted already! The likes of Anne Hathaway, Serena Williams and Vanessa Hudgens were seen sitting among the front row, as models Paloma Elsesser, Alton Mason, and Bella Hadid.
Urban resort to me is the best of both worlds, it’s the luxury and sleek elegance of city life with the laid-back glamour you find in the best resorts.
Michael Kors, Fashion Designer