A Rundown Of The Standout New York Fashion Week 2021 Shows

As the curtains close on the return of a physical Fashion Week in New York City, we reflect on the standout shows from the semi-annual internationally renowned event.

After a long and tough year battling the global pandemic, which pressed pause on large events such as the Fashion Weeks around the world, we give a welcome to the return of the runway. We may have just said goodbye to this year’s warmer seasons, but it’s time for a first look at the leading fashion trends of next Spring from the industry’s top loved designers. We take a moment to shed light on those designers that highlight the much-needed importance of inclusivity and diversity within the fashion industry.

Bella Rene

After making fashion history in 2018 by becoming the first-ever exclusively plus size brand to showcase a collection at NYFW The Shows, Bella Rene is back again with their B.R.N.Y Contemporary Collection. Actively reaching founder, CEO and head designer Kenyatta C. Jones’ goal of giving plus size fashion a positive spotlight in the media, this SS22 show continues the brand’s fight for inclusivity in the fashion industry. Plus size models home to New York faced the new collection, which features empowering garments coming in key primary colours with staple monochrome shades. From wide leg trousers and fearlessly striking halterneck tops to fitted vegan leather biker dresses and animal print fur maxi coats, this collection captures the the unapologetically bold women of today’s society.

It was important for me to create a high fashion brand that plus size women could call their own that worked to open doors for more brand to follow. - Kenyatta C. Jones, Founder, CEO and Head Designer of Bella Rene

Rachel Comey

Celebrating 20 years in the fashion industry, Rachel Comey showcased her Spring 2022 collection through contemporary dance in a naturally bright New York City office. The “show experience” was a big part of the early days of Comey’s runway career, which made this an important aspect to revisit within the show marking 2 decades of the designer’s brand. Taking vibrancy and patterns to the next level, this Spring 2022 collection uses boldly bright colours and loud clashing prints to bring back the joy that we’ve missed during the pandemic. With strong connections to the New York art scene, the designer used the models to tell the story of recycling – respecting something that may seem old but looking at it with new eyes. Worn by all genders, standout garments from this collection include psychedelic trippy prints, black strappy cut-out midi dress and neon crochet knits.

Prabal Gurung

Prabal Gurung takes the new season down the route of American Girl, reimagining ideas of nationality, gender and beauty through Gurung’s own lens of optimism and pure hope. Spotlighting America’s femininity, Spring 2022: American Girl envisions classics with a new lens that encompasses confidence, boldness and fearlessness. The pieces in this collection are rooted in American sportswear sensibility with an added couture twist that celebrates New York as a constant source of inspiration. With neon cotton gingham reflecting the lights of the city and hand-shredded organza mimicing strong fur silhouettes, Gurung elevates feminine staples with structure and a sense of fluidity, where utilitarian meets extreme femininity. Effortlessly encouraging the wearer to be unapologetically and authentically themselves in mind, body and spirit.

America has always been a woman – but she has not always been treated beautifully. What does it mean to be the most essential person in this country? What is feminine? What is American? And who gets to be it all – or none of it? - Prabal Gurung

Kenneth Nicholson

Showcasing the beauty of genderless fashion at its finest, Kenneth Nicholson wows New York Fashion Week yet again with his SS22 collection. After previously exploring softer menswear, Nicholson took a bolder approach to this season’s dressing with looks that experienced a sense of edgy grunge. From light and bright floral to delicate lace, midi dresses took center stage as they were layered with lime wide leg trousers and long striped knits. Taking a deeper look, tailored pinstripe two pieces and oversized houndstooth trench coats took on a darker-toned colour palette. The as symbolic as ever runway touched on society’s subjects of toxic masculinity and the simple importance of art and beauty.

Sergio Hudson

After dressing Vice President of the United States, Kamala Harris and previous history-making first lady, Michelle Obama on 2021’s Inauguration Day, Sergio Hudson returned to the runway with The Sergio Hudson Collection “Return To Glamour” for Fall 2021. This Ready-to-Wear collection is vibrantly glamourous, following classic Sergio Hudson style. These primary coloured, body-inclusive garments effectively express the busy life of the modern woman, with pieces that take you from day-to-night with ease. With body-hugging garments and thigh-high slits accentuating the feminine figure to piercingly sharp cut suits, Hudson perfects the return of our glamourous side post-lockdown.

Coach

Introducing Spring 2022, Coach debuted Stuart Vevers’ collection with the house’s return to the runway in New York City alongside a special digital episode of “Coach TV: Public Access”. Evolving the innovative hybrid approach to the runway, combining a live show with a digital format, to celebrate the creative and bold spirit of the city. This new chapter for the house takes on Vevers’ vision shared with the progressive attitude archives of Coach’s first head designer Bonnie Cashin. The results? An American classic ready-to-wear collection of clothing and bags reimagined through the lens of the present time. Presented on a cast of new faces, representing the energy, diversity and spirit of the next generation, this collection acts as a love letter to New York and pays tribute to iconic locations across the city. Continuing the house’s commitment to sustainability and pieces made to last, this season sees environmentally responsible leather, upcycled denim and reimagined vintage.

Spring presents my vision of a new vocabulary of American fashion inspired by our 80-year heritage through the lens of the next generation. A celebration, too, of the colourful, upbeat optimism of Coach’s first designer Bonnie Cashin, it’s a collection I designed in response to the times we are living through—and a collective wish for a better, brighter future. - Stuart Vevers, Creative Director of Coach

Christian Cowan

Celebrating what makes fashion fun for all, British designer Christian Cowan takes Fashion Week by storm with his personal love letter to New York. After the year we’ve experienced with the global pandemic, his SS21 Collection Maje Not Beige, brings the club kids spirit back to the runway and the nightlife scene. With a monochrome base colour palette, Cowan inflicts flares of lime green, hot pint, sunset orange and seductive rouges into his pieces. A collection that encounters skin-baring mesh, checkered prints, daring cut-outs, vivacious fur and sequins and sparkles, this elegantly extravagant return to the physical runway is what 2021 needed. Bringing fashion to the future, the QR Code Dress took the crown for the standout piece of the show. Bringing fashion to the future, the standout piece of the show is the QR Code Dress. Innovatively partnering with Yahoo, Cowan’s one-of-a-kind gown features a warped digitally printed QR Code alongside multiple functionably scannable codes placed upon a 1950’s silhouette, combining the future with the past.

Bibhu Mohapatra

Bibhu Mohapatra‘s Spring 2022 collection takes primary inspiration from Terry Wolverton’s book, the Insurgent Muse, one of the original creatives behind the historic Women’s Building of Los Angeles in the 1970s. With current issues described by Mohapatra as dire, surrounding women, abortion rights and reproductive healthcare; the designer sheds light on the radical artists, feminists and visionaries who established the safe space for expression – adding how they are more relevant and inspiring than ever at this present moment. This season the designer reinvents past silhouettes from the past 12 years of his archive, into new minimalist pieces that are rich in volume, texture and elegance. His soft colour palette features neutral tones, with hints of lilacs, greens and contrasted with rich black for a truly complementing collection. The runway was topped off with the designer himself showcasing a “Her Body = Her Choice” t-shirt, a nod of support towards the women of Texas as they face a near-total abortion ban.

Thank you to everyone who shows up everyday for women’s rights everywhere…there is no greater muse in the world - Bibhu Mohapatra